Hank, Skein, Cake, Ball

I know some people use hank and skein interchangeably, but the above is what I learned the different terms to mean.

If you buy yarn in a hank, you'll want to wind it up before working with it, otherwise you may end up with a huge tangled mess that will take hours and hours and hours to untangle - ask me how I know!

A swift and ball winder are useful, although not necessary.  If you wind the yarn with a winder, you get a cake; if you use your hands, you'll get a ball.

In place of a swift, you can drape the hank over the back of a chair, your knees, your feet, or talk someone into holding it for you on their hands.

You can wind a center pull ball with a toilet paper tube or paper towel tube cut in half, here is a video.

Purl-Twist Knot Cowl - Free Pattern

                                        

 


Materials:US 9 circular needle, 24" 
1 skein of DK weight yarn, 230 yds (3.5 0z)
a stitch marker
tapestry needle
wool wash (optional)

Gauge: not critical

Finished Size: Appx. 6" tall, 48" circumference

Purl-Twist Knot Stitch:

Multiple of 4

Rounds 1 and 3: knit
Round 2: *k2, p2tog and leave on needle, p first st again, then drop from needle
Round 4: *p2tog and leave on needle, p first st again, then drop from needle, k2

Pattern:

Cast on 152 sts, join to knit in the round and place marker

Work 4 rounds k2 p2 rib

Work 10 repeats of Purl-Twist Knot Stitch

Work 4 rounds k2 p2 rib

Bind off, block, weave in ends. 

I made this fairly narrow with a large circumference so I could wear it wrapped twice.  

You can make the circumference smaller by casting on fewer stitches, making sure that you subtract by 4 (the stitch multiple).  Depending on how much smaller you go, you may need to use a 16" circular.

The cowl can be made taller by working additional repeats of the Purl-Twist Knot stitch. 

If you want a cowl even larger in circumference, cast on more stitches, being sure that you still have a multiple of four.

Keep in mind any size adjustments may require more yarn.

Feel free to sell finished items made using this pattern.  

Knots in Yarn

Knots in yarn are inevitable. It happens with both expensive and cheap yarns.  It happens with both commercially spun and hand spun yarns.  I am not talking about a tangled wad of yarn barf.  I am talking about the place in a skein of yarn where two ends are tied together.

When I first started knitting, I got very frustrated when I found a knot (or two, or three) in my yarn.  First I thought it was just because I was using cheap acrylic yarn.  As I got into more expensive and natural fiber yarns, I continued to find knots!  I thought, how can there be knots in this $25 silk yarn?  It was maddening to find these knots and I didn't understand why.

I spend a good deal of time on knitting forums, and have seen many people ranting and raving and swearing to never purchase yarn from this or that particular brand ever again because of knots.  I've also read blogs or seen videos where people say you should not ever find knots in your yarn, and yarn with knots is poor quality.  It is nice to have knot free skeins, but to expect to have one long perfect strand of yarn each and every time I think is a little unreasonable.

I've realized over the years that just because yarn is expensive, it doesn't mean that at some point, the manufacturer didn't have to join a new strand of yarn to complete the skein of yarn.  Or perhaps, as the fiber is zipping through the machines, it breaks.  Enter the KNOT.  Often the two ends are just tied together; some yarn that I have knit with has had the two ends joined with the little bits trimmed off so the joins aren't so noticeable.

Knots happen, and it isn't worth getting so upset over.  When I come across a knot, I simply untie it if possible, and then continue on with my knitting.  If I can't untie the knot, I just cut it out.  The joins that have been neatly trimmed by the manufacturer I don't bother to do anything at all with, I just knit right past them.  I no longer get frustrated or angry and accuse my yarn of being cheap garbage - to a point.

Generally, I don't mind finding four or so knots in my yarn.  More than that, I do get a little annoyed at having to stop knitting to deal with it, but I try to not let it get to me too much.  Sometimes I do think when there is a particularly bad skein with knots every few yards, those should be discounted.  I don't know what happens, but on occasion the whole shebang comes out screwy.  I pity the poor person who buys a large quantity from that batch; I suspect those are the folks doing much of the ranting and raving.

I've said before that it would be nice to know beforehand if a particular skein has knots, but I guess we, as crafters, are supposed to be aware that such things can happen.  OK, I am aware that knots happen - I'd still like to know beforehand. Selling my own hand dyed yarns, I do try to catch these things and make note so people know what to expect.  I think that is only fair.

If you purchase yarn that comes in hanks, you know that you must wind them before using them; this is when you will find any knots in the yarn so you won't be surprised.  If you typically purchase yarn that is ready to knit from, you won't discover the knots until you come to them, or you can rewind the yarn to check for knots.  That may seem like a hassle, but if you don't want to be surprised, it is time well spent to rewind.

Above I mentioned how I deal with knots when knitting.  If you crochet, here is a post with some helpful info.

What do you do about knots in your yarn?  Leave me a comment below, I'd love to hear your thoughts.

Annaliese Shawl - FREE Knitting Pattern

I wanted to share this shawl pattern with you.  This is knit with my wonderful Silk Camel yarn!  So soft, and the drape is amazing.


This is a crescent shaped shawl for the intermediate knitter.

The lace edging is knit first, then stitches are picked up and knit along the edge to work the main body of the shawl.

You will need just 1 hank of my Silk Camel fingering weight yarn, or you may substitute any similar weight yarn.  You will also need a US size 10.5 needle; the edging can be knit on a straight needle, but a 32" circular needle is recommended to accommodate the stitches for the body of the shawl.

The shawl measures appx. 46" x 19" after blocking.

The skills required to knit the shawl are:
• Short row shaping
• Pick up and knit
• I-cord bind off
• Knit/K2tog/K2tog tbl/K3tog
• Purl/P2tog
• SSK
• Yarn overs – single/double/beginning of row
• Slip and pass stitches over

There are several ways to get the pattern:

From my Storenvy shop, add the pattern to your cart and checkout.  An email will be sent with the download link.   CLICK HERE

To download from Ravelry CLICK HERE

From Craftsy, place the pattern in your cart and checkout to download the pattern.  CLICK HERE

Calypso Shawl - Free Pattern!

MY YARN SHOP HAS CLOSED.  THIS YARN AND PATTERN ARE NO LONGER AVAILABLE

Here is a free shawl pattern for you!  This is super easy and pretty quick to knit up. I wanted a shawl that wasn't just another triangle, or shaped in the usual way.  I had fun with shaping on this, and absolutely love how it turned out.

I used some of my Shimmer yarn, but you can use any fingering weight yarn you like.   (The color I used has sold out, but I do have a few other colors available in this yarn if you would like to use the same yarn!)  This is knit in garter stitch, so even a beginner can do this.

I used yarn overs as my increases, but you can use any increase you like.  The yarn overs at the beginning of the rows are for increasing, and you won't even see them once the shawl has been blocked.  If you will be using another increase, I would knit the first stitch, then work the increase - kfb just as an example.

I wanted to use up as much yarn as possible, without ending up having too little to finish my bind off, so my last increase section is significantly smaller than the others. You can stop and bind off before the last increase section, or you can even continue on if you want the shawl to be bigger.

YARN SALE!

Yay, it's a yarn sale!   Through the end of January, you can use code 5KDISC at checkout to get 40% off any purchase in the shop!

http://sapphiresnpurls.storenvy.com/


Lots of yummy yarn!

The discount is good on everything in the shop.

Below are just a few pictures of some of the yarn available.

Cocoon Cowl - FREE PATTERN

Cocoon Cowl

Here is a new free pattern for you all.  This uses Patons Roving yarn and US 11 needles, so it is a super quick knit.

You will need to know how to knit, knit through the back loop, slip stitches, and slip stitches purlwise through the back loop.  This is knit in the round, so you should also be comfortable using circular needles.  That said, it is a fairly simple pattern.

I did a video on this stitch pattern back in August of 2012, and have wanted to make something with it ever since.  It took a while to get around to it :-)


You can download the pattern for free from my Craftsy store by clicking on the picture below.

I hope you like the cowl!  If you make it, feel free to stop by my facebook page and share a picture!

Source: Cocoon Cowl via SapphiresnPurls on Craftsy

Garter Tab Cast On

The Garter Tab Cast On is how I start all of my top down shawls; I love this cast on!  I didn't love it at first though.  In fact, I didn't like it and stayed away from it.  Why?  Because it seemed hard and confusing, and I really didn't understand what in the world it was for.

This way of thinking is of course, silly.  Nothing is hard once you learn to do it.  In order to learn, you must do.  And it's just yarn - if you don't get it the first time (and you probably won't), try again and again until you get it.

One day I tried it and discovered it was sooo easy and I love it!  There really isn't anything hard about it.  You cast on a few stitches, pick up and knit a few more stitches, and there you have a garter tab cast on.

The main reason I  wanted to master the garter tab cast on is because I really wanted to knit a top down shawl.  I couldn't quite wrap my mind around how you could knit a triangle shawl starting from the top, instead of from the bottom point.  I wanted to know!  The only way I knew to start a top down shawl was with the garter tab cast on.  I know now it isn't necessary to use a garter tab, but it is my preferred method.  And by the way, top down shawls aren't hard to knit either.  They are just as easy to knit as a bottom up triangle shawl.

Before we begin, I will say that this is only one way to do a garter tab cast on.  Some knitters prefer to do a provisional cast on, and then when ready to pick up along the cast on edge, remove the waste yarn and pick up the live stitches.  Too much muss, fuss, and fiddle for me.  This tab is such a small part of the knitting, nobody is even going to notice.  If you'd like to see the provisional cast on method, just do a search and you will get plenty of results.

For the garter tab cast on, I normally start with four stitches, because I have this thing about even numbers, but often you will see patterns call for you to start with three stitches and knit six rows.  In addition to my 'thing' for even numbers, I think four is just easier to work with than three.  So for our purposes here, we will use four.

Cast on four stitches.
Knit eight rows.
After last row, do not turn work over.  Instead, keeping the same side of the work facing you, turn the tab 90 degrees clockwise so that the left side of the tab is now facing up - you will pick up and knit four stitches along the side.
Now, turn the tab again so that the cast on edge is facing up; you will pick up and knit four more stitches along the cast on edge.

You should have a total of twelve stitches and are ready to begin.

This is just an example; always cast on/knit/pick up the number of stitches your pattern directs.  Even if you are working with a different number, the method is the same.

Once you have the required number of stitches on your needles, continue on with your pattern.  I usually knit a plain row before beginning the increases - that is just how I do it.  You can do whatever you feel works best for you.

Since this technique is/can be confusing in writing, of course I have a video to show you how it is done.

Here you go, and Happy Knitting!

Beaded Bind Off

To go along with the Beaded Cast On from last week, here is an easy way to add beads to your bind off.

For this method, you will need a crochet hook sized appropriately for your yarn/beads.  I used a size 10 Steel Crochet Hook for my sample, which works perfectly for size 6 beads.  (Steel hooks are sized differently than regular hooks - the higher the number, the smaller the hook.  The opposite of regular hooks.)

I've done my sample using the standard knitted bind off, but you can add beads to pretty much any bind off method.  You can space the beads out any way you like also.

Just begin to bind off.  When you are ready for a bead, you will want to take the stitch from your right needle --  off the needle --!  Don't panic, it's ok for a stitch to be without the needle for a moment.  I like to pull the loop up a bit just so I have a little room to work.  

Then, place a bead onto your crochet hook; grab the stitch with your crochet hook, and finally, slide the bead onto the stitch.  Place the stitch back onto the right needle and pull gently to tighten it back up.

That's it!  Continue binding off and adding beads.  You'll finish as you would when binding off without beads - on the last stitch, cut the yarn, pull the tail through.

A super easy way to add a little something extra to your bind off!   Here is the video.

Happy Knitting!

 

Pre-Stringing Beads Onto Yarn

I plan on doing some projects where I will need to pre-string beads on to my yarn; a perfect time to share a video on several different ways you can accomplish this.  NO fancy equipment required, you can use a needle and thread, a steel crochet hook, even dental floss.  I have a beaded cast on video coming up, which requires beads to be pre-strung, so if you have never done either, keep these ideas in mind for that video!

Blocking Your Knits

Before blocking

After blocking

Blocking is like swatching for a lot of knitters - nobody really wants to do it, or understands why it is necessary.  Just look at the pictures above, and that should be reason enough to convince you that you should block your knitting (or crochet, for that matter).

Blocking opens up the stitches, evens them out, and allows you to shape the fabric.  It also makes the fabric drape better and gives it an airier feel.

In the above pictures, you can see what a difference blocking has made.  The lace stitch of the rectangle is visible; the loops of the triangle are more pronounced; and the pentagon actually looks like a pentagon!

While all of my samples were knit with 100% wool (because that is what I knit with about 90% of the time, or another animal fiber), you can and should block other fibers.

I know it can seem like a hassle to take the time to block a lace shawl, when all you really want to do is put it on!  But, if you've spent days, or even weeks, on a beautiful lace shawl, then a little more time to block it isn't going to make much difference -- except that your lace will look absolutely beautiful!

Below are some links with info on how best to block particular fibers (not all fibers may hold up well to wet blocking, or steaming may not be best for another), as well as links to where you can find out more about and purchase blocking materials.  

You really don't have to have a blocking board to pin your item out on, a spare bed or even the floor will do nicely.  So long as it is a place where no cats, kids, or meandering significant others will disturb it, you can pin out your projects just about any place.  

Below is also a video I made, showing three different methods of blocking the above samples: wet blocking for the rectangle, pin and spritz for the triangle, and steam blocking for the pentagon.

Since you will be knitting a swatch anyhow to check for gauge (you are going to swatch, aren't you?), and plan to block your finished item, you should block your swatch also; it's a good time to see what your fabric looks like with the chosen method of blocking.

I am just using pins in this, if I find the time in the future, I will show you blocking wires.  Essentially, you just weave your wires along the edge of the knitting, then place your pins along the inside edge of the wires to block.  Blocking wires eliminate the amount of pins you will need to use along straight edges.

More info on which method to use on which fiber: 

• From Knitty
• From The Purl Bee
• From the TECHknitting Blog
• From Craftsy
• From knitsimple 

Blocking materials:

• Knitter's Block (from coco knits - her website says out of stock, and other sites that sell the mats are back ordered)
• Interlocking Foam Mats - will work fine in place of the Knitter's Block - also check Wal-Mart, Target, etc.
• Blocking Mats from Knitpicks
• Block 'n Roll Blocking Mat or Blocking Board 
• Blocking Wires from Inspinknitty - best blocking wires, I will never use any other kind after trying these
• T-Pins - I am linking to Jimmy Beans here, but you can find these from most yarn sites, or your LYS, or craft stores
• Eucalan Wool Wash
• Soak Wool Wash

 These are not the only products, or the only place to buy products.  I do encourage shopping around, check local craft or yarn shops, ask around on knitting boards, etc. 

Finally, here is the video.

Sapphires-n-Purls Yarn

Ohhhh, I am selling some gorgeous, soft, smooshy yarn!   Right now I only have a little bit listed to see how it goes.  I will also be adding some kits for sale as soon as I get everything together.  I will have more listed soon!

All of these are hand dyed in a  unique, one of a kind color.  No two hanks will be exactly alike - once they are gone, they are GONE!  I am not keeping my color 'recipes', because I love creating new, unique colors with each batch of yarn.  How fun it is to throw some dye into the pot and see what happens!

Check out my store HERE and see what I have!  


A few more pictures of my luscious yarn.  Right now I have some 100% merino wool and a 50/50 baby suri alpaca yarn.  Both of these are lace weight yarns.  So soft and scrumptious, I've loved knitting up samples and hate to see it go!

Pink Lemonaid 100% Merino 

Red Sky at Night 100% Merino

Totally Tie Dye 100% Merino

Silver Lining 100% Merino

Dusty Rose 50/50 Baby Suri Alpaca

Lavender and Mint 50/50 Baby Suri Alpaca

Tipping Points Knitting Needle Review

Here is my little review of these new needles.

These are the new Tipping Points from Susan Bates, and the cool part is, you get three different tips for each needle size.  There is a Sharp, Medium, and Blunt tip that you can change out depending on the yarn you are using, or whatever your preference is.

Pros:
Easy to change tips
Smooth join
Light weight

Cons:
Expensive
Too much 'stuff' to keep track of - all those tips, the rubber grip, and locking key
No organizer/carrying case available
A bit of a nuisance getting them in and out of the box they come in
Tips tend to come loose during use


You will shell out $24.99 to $29.99 for each needle, depending on what size you buy.   Each needle comes with the three tips, a locking key, and rubber grip to loosen/tighten the tips.  These ten inch needles come in a variety of colors, and are made of anodized aluminum.  The locking key and rubber grip is to keep the tips from coming loose while in use, however, for me, I find they come loose regardless of how tightly I've screwed them on.  I've tightened the tips with and without the rubber grip - no difference.  It's no big deal to tighten them as I go; I don't know if it is just how I hold and use them, or if they tend to come loose as a general rule.

I like them ok, and think they make a good addition to any die-hard knitter's collection.

I've used these in a few of my recent stitch videos -  Wavy Rib or Feather and Fan for example.

I have only seen these at Jo-Ann's, or you can buy online HERE.   Keep an eye out for coupons to use at Jo-Ann's - I got mine at 25% off, so the cost wasn't too bad.

Entrelac in the Round or Seamless Entrelac

At long last, here is the second part of the Entrelac tutorials - Seamless Entrelac!

Below you will find a printable guide that you can use to create your own seamless entrelac projects.   There is also a video on the technique.

This  tutorial on seamless entrelac is intended for those knitters who already have an understanding of entrelac.  If you need further instruction on entrelac basics, you can find my other tutorial HERE.

Seamless Entrelac is really the same as when worked flat, except you don't need to knit the side triangles.  This means, if you already have a grasp on entrelac, then working it in the round will be a snap.  When starting, it looks as though you will be working flat, and you may wonder how it will turn into seamless entrelac.  Your fabric will not be joined until you work the last Right Leaning Rectangle.

The photo above shows the Cables and Lace Entrelac Cowl.  The pattern is available only on Craftsy.  Click the picture below to go to Craftsy to purchase the pattern.   SORRY, PATTERN IS NO LONGER AVAILABLE.  The lace stitch used in the cowl is Cat's Eye Lace, and the cable stitch is my own (although it is so simple, I am sure it has been done many times over by others).

Click HERE to go to Scribd to download the tutorial if the embedded document below isn't working.

  Entrelac in the Round Tutorial

My yarn from The Memory Tree and Yarn Branch

Here is the yarn I got yesterday from The Memory Tree and Yarn Branch.  It is all soooo yummy, I can't wait to knit with it.

First up, this beautiful lace weight from Grignasco Knits, Merinosilk 25.  I typically do not go for green at all, but this pastel was irresistible!

I am going to have to go through my Walker Treasury books to find something to do this yarn justice.

Next - I have some angora yarn in my stash, however it all has a bit of nylon as well.  This Angora from Plymouth is 100% angora; I have searched and searched for a 100% angora and have never found it.  Until yesterday!  Let me tell you, it is nothing short of exquisite!

No better place for this yarn than right next to you.  I plan on using this for a cowl.  

Here is some super squishy yarn from Plymouth, which I have only ever found online.  I couldn't resist buying this yesterday when I felt it.  Mushishi!

This wonderful yarn is most likely going to be a shawl.  I do love my shawls!  The only hard part will be deciding whether or not to work it top down or bottom up.

Next, some more Plymouth yarn.  This is Taria Tweed, which I have never seen before, so thought I would give it a try.

I think this is going to make another lovely shawl for me.  

And finally, Lustra from Berroco.  This is very much like the Mulberry Silk I purchased at a knitting and crochet festival last year.  It is soft, smooth, smooshy and wonderful!

This will probably turn into a cowl.  I know it will be so soft and silky, and great for wearing next to the skin.  Yummy!

The Memory Tree and Yarn Branch

Yesterday I visited a little shop called The Memory Tree and Yarn Branch.  This shop is located at 1015 Chess Street, Monongahela, PA.  Currently you can buy yarn and knit/crochet notions and items for scrap booking here.

This shop is owned by the sweetest little old lady, Dorothy.  It was very nice to chat with her a bit while I was there, and I look forward to going back!

Dorothy plans on eliminating the scrap book part of the store, and providing only yarn; she also plans on providing a selection of buttons.

Some of the yarns you can find here are Patons, Bernat, and Berroco, among others.  I was so very tempted to purchase the interchangeable set of Knit Picks needles I saw, but managed to hold back.

You can also get a Marvelous Memory Card, which receives a number of punches depending on the amount of money spent.  Once you hit the $200 mark, you get $10 in Memory Money!

The Memory Tree and Yarn Branch is a great little store - if you live in the area, or if you don't live in the area, but happen to be passing through, I recommend you stop by and visit Dorothy, and buy some of the wonderful yarn she carries.

Here is the yarn I got from Dorothy yesterday. Click HERE.