Who doesn't need a scrubbie (or scrubby)? Making your own is quick and simple.
This isn't really a pattern - just how I like to knit scrubbies. Very simple, you just need a few yards of nylon mesh netting (some people use tulle - I prefer the nylon net) and some needles. I like to use size 10 wood or bamboo needles, you can use whatever type and size works for you. These scrubbies are just worked in garter stitch. Make them in one color or many, big or small. You can even carry a strand of cotton yarn along with the nylon mesh; this will make the scrubbies a little bulkier and they will hold dish soap a bit better. There is no right or wrong way to do these, so get yourself some nylon mesh netting and make some scrubbies!
A word of warning - you don't want to pull or tug on this too hard, because it will rip. Firm but gentle. I just cut strips about an inch wide - they don't have to be perfect. Just eyeball it.
I got my nylon mesh at fabric.com, but you can also find this stuff at Jo-Ann's - they even have "Scrubbie Mesh".
Here is my latest cowl design, the Easy Peasy Reversible Cowl!
If you can knit in the round, and make knits and purls, then you can make this cowl. The cowl is knit with just one skein of my Merino DK. (231 yds/211 m - 3.5 oz/100 gr 100% superwash merino wool DK weight)
The stitch pattern creates a beautiful fabric on both sides, so you can just throw it on without worrying that the 'wrong' side is showing.
It is also very easy to make the cowl larger - as written it is appx. 38" x 8-1/2". Instructions are given within the pattern for making a larger size. Keep in mind, the bigger you make it, the more yarn you will need.
You will need a US size 6 circular needle, 24", a stitch marker and yarn needle for weaving in the ends also.
This pattern is available for purchase HERE in my shop, or you can also purchase it through Ravelry.
The Garter Tab Cast On is how I start all of my top down shawls; I love this cast on! I didn't love it at first though. In fact, I didn't like it and stayed away from it. Why? Because it seemed hard and confusing, and I really didn't understand what in the world it was for.
This way of thinking is of course, silly. Nothing is hard once you learn to do it. In order to learn, you must do. And it's just yarn - if you don't get it the first time (and you probably won't), try again and again until you get it.
One day I tried it and discovered it was sooo easy and I love it! There really isn't anything hard about it. You cast on a few stitches, pick up and knit a few more stitches, and there you have a garter tab cast on.
The main reason I wanted to master the garter tab cast on is because I really wanted to knit a top down shawl. I couldn't quite wrap my mind around how you could knit a triangle shawl starting from the top, instead of from the bottom point. I wanted to know! The only way I knew to start a top down shawl was with the garter tab cast on. I know now it isn't necessary to use a garter tab, but it is my preferred method. And by the way, top down shawls aren't hard to knit either. They are just as easy to knit as a bottom up triangle shawl.
Before we begin, I will say that this is only one way to do a garter tab cast on. Some knitters prefer to do a provisional cast on, and then when ready to pick up along the cast on edge, remove the waste yarn and pick up the live stitches. Too much muss, fuss, and fiddle for me. This tab is such a small part of the knitting, nobody is even going to notice. If you'd like to see the provisional cast on method, just do a search and you will get plenty of results.
For the garter tab cast on, I normally start with four stitches, because I have this thing about even numbers, but often you will see patterns call for you to start with three stitches and knit six rows. In addition to my 'thing' for even numbers, I think four is just easier to work with than three. So for our purposes here, we will use four.
Cast on four stitches.
Knit eight rows.
After last row, do not turn work over. Instead, keeping the same side of the work facing you, turn the tab 90 degrees clockwise so that the left side of the tab is now facing up - you will pick up and knit four stitches along the side.
Now, turn the tab again so that the cast on edge is facing up; you will pick up and knit four more stitches along the cast on edge.
You should have a total of twelve stitches and are ready to begin.
This is just an example; always cast on/knit/pick up the number of stitches your pattern directs. Even if you are working with a different number, the method is the same.
Once you have the required number of stitches on your needles, continue on with your pattern. I usually knit a plain row before beginning the increases - that is just how I do it. You can do whatever you feel works best for you.
Since this technique is/can be confusing in writing, of course I have a video to show you how it is done.
To go along with the Beaded Cast On from last week, here is an easy way to add beads to your bind off.
For this method, you will need a crochet hook sized appropriately for your yarn/beads. I used a size 10 Steel Crochet Hook for my sample, which works perfectly for size 6 beads. (Steel hooks are sized differently than regular hooks - the higher the number, the smaller the hook. The opposite of regular hooks.)
I've done my sample using the standard knitted bind off, but you can add beads to pretty much any bind off method. You can space the beads out any way you like also.
Just begin to bind off. When you are ready for a bead, you will want to take the stitch from your right needle -- off the needle --! Don't panic, it's ok for a stitch to be without the needle for a moment. I like to pull the loop up a bit just so I have a little room to work.
Then, place a bead onto your crochet hook; grab the stitch with your crochet hook, and finally, slide the bead onto the stitch. Place the stitch back onto the right needle and pull gently to tighten it back up.
That's it! Continue binding off and adding beads. You'll finish as you would when binding off without beads - on the last stitch, cut the yarn, pull the tail through.
A super easy way to add a little something extra to your bind off! Here is the video.
I love beads almost as much as I love my yarn. Combine the two, and I am over the moon. Last week, I showed you several methods of pre-stringing beads onto your yarn. Now that you can do that, you are ready to do the Beaded Cast On!
This is just a simple long tail cast on, with the addition of beads. You'll want to make sure your tail is long enough to cast on the required number of stitches, and as always, you'll want beads that will fit your yarn.
The beads should be resting on the tail of the yarn, not the working yarn. You can space the beads out any way you like.
Begin casting on, and when you are ready to add a bead, simply slide one up the yarn until it is against your needle. Then cast on two, three, however many stitches you want in between the beads. When you are ready for the next bead, again just slide one up to the needle.
It doesn't get much easier to add a little glimmer to your cast on edge. Here is a short video.
I plan on doing some projects where I will need to pre-string beads on to my yarn; a perfect time to share a video on several different ways you can accomplish this. NO fancy equipment required, you can use a needle and thread, a steel crochet hook, even dental floss. I have a beaded cast on video coming up, which requires beads to be pre-strung, so if you have never done either, keep these ideas in mind for that video!
This is my Bluebell Scarf. It is knit with one hank of my Alpaca Cloud yarn. I am offering the pattern for this scarf free with the purchase of the yarn. Finished size is appx. 8 x 47.5, knit with a US Size 5 needle. Written and charted instructions. The yarn is currently available in two colors, Bluebell and Berries and Cream. You can get more info from my Storenvy shop HERE.
Blocking is like swatching for a lot of knitters - nobody really wants to do it, or understands why it is necessary. Just look at the pictures above, and that should be reason enough to convince you that you should block your knitting (or crochet, for that matter).
Blocking opens up the stitches, evens them out, and allows you to shape the fabric. It also makes the fabric drape better and gives it an airier feel.
In the above pictures, you can see what a difference blocking has made. The lace stitch of the rectangle is visible; the loops of the triangle are more pronounced; and the pentagon actually looks like a pentagon!
While all of my samples were knit with 100% wool (because that is what I knit with about 90% of the time, or another animal fiber), you can and should block other fibers.
I know it can seem like a hassle to take the time to block a lace shawl, when all you really want to do is put it on! But, if you've spent days, or even weeks, on a beautiful lace shawl, then a little more time to block it isn't going to make much difference -- except that your lace will look absolutely beautiful!
Below are some links with info on how best to block particular fibers (not all fibers may hold up well to wet blocking, or steaming may not be best for another), as well as links to where you can find out more about and purchase blocking materials.
You really don't have to have a blocking board to pin your item out on, a spare bed or even the floor will do nicely. So long as it is a place where no cats, kids, or meandering significant others will disturb it, you can pin out your projects just about any place.
Below is also a video I made, showing three different methods of blocking the above samples: wet blocking for the rectangle, pin and spritz for the triangle, and steam blocking for the pentagon.
Since you will be knitting a swatch anyhow to check for gauge (you are going to swatch, aren't you?), and plan to block your finished item, you should block your swatch also; it's a good time to see what your fabric looks like with the chosen method of blocking.
I am just using pins in this, if I find the time in the future, I will show you blocking wires. Essentially, you just weave your wires along the edge of the knitting, then place your pins along the inside edge of the wires to block. Blocking wires eliminate the amount of pins you will need to use along straight edges.
These are not the only products, or the only place to buy products. I do encourage shopping around, check local craft or yarn shops, ask around on knitting boards, etc.
Woohoo, my first kit is now available! I love cowls, they are one of my favorite things to knit! This kit comes with the yarn already wound, the stitch marker, and pattern. And a nice little bag you can tote the project around in while you work on it! All you need is a 24 inch US Size 10 circular needle (or size for gauge) and a yarn or tapestry needle to weave in the ends. That's it. The instructions are written only, no chart - because it is such a simple pattern you will have it memorized right away.
·Appx. 34 in. circumference at the top
·Appx. 38 in. circumference at the
bottom
·Appx. 14 in. length
TThe yarn is 100% wool, bulky weight, hand dyed. Click HERE to purchase.
Ohhhh, I am selling some gorgeous, soft, smooshy yarn! Right now I only have a little bit listed to see how it goes. I will also be adding some kits for sale as soon as I get everything together. I will have more listed soon!
All of these are hand dyed in a unique, one of a kind color. No two hanks will be exactly alike - once they are gone, they are GONE! I am not keeping my color 'recipes', because I love creating new, unique colors with each batch of yarn. How fun it is to throw some dye into the pot and see what happens!
A few more pictures of my luscious yarn. Right now I have some 100% merino wool and a 50/50 baby suri alpaca yarn. Both of these are lace weight yarns. So soft and scrumptious, I've loved knitting up samples and hate to see it go!
These are the new Tipping Points from Susan Bates, and the cool part is, you get three different tips for each needle size. There is a Sharp, Medium, and Blunt tip that you can change out depending on the yarn you are using, or whatever your preference is.
Pros:
Easy to change tips
Smooth join
Light weight
Cons:
Expensive
Too much 'stuff' to keep track of - all those tips, the rubber grip, and locking key
No organizer/carrying case available
A bit of a nuisance getting them in and out of the box they come in
Tips tend to come loose during use
You will shell out $24.99 to $29.99 for each needle, depending on what size you buy. Each needle comes with the three tips, a locking key, and rubber grip to loosen/tighten the tips. These ten inch needles come in a variety of colors, and are made of anodized aluminum. The locking key and rubber grip is to keep the tips from coming loose while in use, however, for me, I find they come loose regardless of how tightly I've screwed them on. I've tightened the tips with and without the rubber grip - no difference. It's no big deal to tighten them as I go; I don't know if it is just how I hold and use them, or if they tend to come loose as a general rule.
I like them ok, and think they make a good addition to any die-hard knitter's collection.
I've used these in a few of my recent stitch videos - Wavy Rib or Feather and Fan for example.
I have only seen these at Jo-Ann's, or you can buy online HERE. Keep an eye out for coupons to use at Jo-Ann's - I got mine at 25% off, so the cost wasn't too bad.
Hi, Knitters! I have decided to send out a monthly newsletter! Nothing fancy, it will be sent at the end of each month, and show all stitches I have posted for that month. If I have also released free or paid patterns, I will link those as well. Perhaps a knitting tidbit or two on occasion. If you would like to sign up, you may do so using the sign up in the right column of the blog. The first one will be sent at the end of August 2013.
You're probably wondering, what is a yarn-less bind off??? A yarn-less bind off is something I was doing long before I knew it had a name.
As a new knitter, I often couldn't tell when I wasn't going to have enough yarn to work one last row then the bind off. So I did the only thing I could think to do when I got to the end of my last row and realized that two inches of yarn wasn't enough to bind off with. I just slipped/passed stitches, without using the working yarn to knit a bind off stitch as you would normally do. These days, I still run out of yarn, but that is due to me being in denial that I won't have quite enough yarn to finish off my project and that somehow the yarn will magically lengthen to give me enough to finish those last few bind off stitches.
You can do this on flat and circular knitting. If using straights, you'll want to slip the stitches to your second needle so that the working yarn - the tail that is too short to complete the bind off - is near the end of the needle with the stopper, and not near the point of the needle. If using circular needles for flat knitting, simply slide your work to the other end. For work done in the round, when you reach the beginning/end of the round, you will just want to start working backwards.
Slip the first stitch to the right needle. Slip the next stitch - two stitches on the right needle. With the tip of the left needle, pick up the first stitch and pass it over the second stitch. One stitch has been bound off. Slip the next stitch to the right needle. Pass the first stitch over - second stitch bound off. Repeat until you get to the last stitch where your working yarn is waiting for you. Pull the tail through the last stitch, just like with a regular bind off, and TA-DA! You just bound off your work even though you only had a short length of working yarn! Nifty tool to have in your knitting repertoire should you need it.
Here is a video. This is done with straights, but again you can do it with circular needles too.
Here is the second installment of the 'add a border to your knitting' series. This time it is Seed Stitch, which is probably my favorite.
Like the Garter Stitch Border, this is super easy. All you need to do is work as many rows as you like in seed stitch before beginning the main pattern, reserve some stitches on the sides, and work in seed stitch before binding off for the same number of rows as you did at the bottom.
Seed Stitch is two rows, *K1, P1* or *P1, K1*, and then the opposite on Row 2. You really don't have to keep track of what row you are you, just purl the knits and knit the purls (the opposite of Knit the Knits and Purl the Purls).
My sample was just done with stocking stitch, but you can apply this to any stitch pattern.
I sometimes mention in my stitch videos that a stitch has sloppy edges, and you may want to add a border depending on what you plan to use the stitch for.
I've often been asked exactly how to add a border - so here is a series of videos showing how I do it.
I almost always use a seed stitch border, but a garter stitch border is also attractive. A border not only neatens up the edges, but it can also help a curly stitch lay flat (think stocking stitch). There may still be some curl left, but a border can help. You may also want to consider slipping the first stitch for an extra neat edge.
All you really have to do is cast on extra stitches to be used on either side, and knit a few rows in the same stitch before beginning the stitch pattern, then a few more rows before binding off. It really is that simple.
I do recommend you swatch before starting your project, to make sure you like how everything looks. Let's say you want a garter stitch border along the sides that is six stitches wide. Your stitch pattern, however, has you knitting the first two stitches on both the RS and WS. Those two stitches are going to add to the six stitches you have designated for your border, making it look wider. Or, on a stitch I swatched around with recently, there was one stitch along the right side of the fabric that was knit on the RS and purled on the WS, which created a line of stocking stitch. It looked a little funny, so for that example I would probably add another stitch to the left side of the fabric, to recreate that line of stocking stitch so both edges look the same. Or maybe, your stitch pattern has a few rows of garter stitch at the beginning of the pattern, that isn't repeated for the last few rows. That would make the border wider at the bottom than at the top; in that instance, you could add more rows of garter stitch to the top before binding off. Don't be afraid to play around with stitches to achieve a look that you like. It's also ok to try omitting a stitch or two if it won't change the look of the overall pattern. Again - this is why swatching is important before starting your project. It is never fun to put hours of work into something, only to realize that it doesn't look quite right and you have to rip back and start over.
At this point, I have three videos in mind. I may add one or two more in the future, though. The thing I like about these, is they look the same on both sides, so there is now worry about what side your stitch pattern starts on.
Here is the first one - Garter Stitch Border
I just used a yo-k2tog pattern for this example.
Cast on 16
Row 1: k1 *yo, k2tog* Repeat between * to last st, k1
That is repeated for all rows, and makes for some pretty sloppy edges as you can see in the picture above.
To add the Garter Stitch Border, I added 8 extra stitches - four for each side, plus I knit three plain rows before starting the stitch pattern and three plain rows before binding off.
Cast on 24
Set up: Knit three rows of plain knitting
Row 1: k5 *yo, k2tog* Repeat between * to last five sts, k5
Repeat Row 1 for desired length
Finishing: Knit three rows of plain knitting, then bind off
I love this cowl! It is thick, dense, bulky and knit using reversible cables! I know summer is upon us, but I am already looking ahead to the cooler days, and this will be so nice when the cold weather comes back!
You can purchase this pattern from my Craftsy store by clicking on the picture below.
Weaving in loose ends, the final step in completing a project! My least favorite part of the process. Some knitters work in tails as they go - me, I put it off until I absolutely have to do it.
I am not too particular with this part of the process, but others are. Look around, and you will see many different ways knitters weave in their tails. For instance, Purl Bee has some excellent weave in methods - I am just usually too lazy to be so particular.
Here is how I do mine - usually with a crochet hook, I just weave in and out along the cast on and bind off edges. If I am feeling ambitious, I will break out the yarn needle and carefully weave along the stitch pattern. Other times, I will just weave along the edge as I would with a crochet hook. Sometimes, I work right under the edge. Any way you do it, if it looks good to you, then don't worry about it. There is no wrong way to do it :0)
If you have never knit from a chart, or are afraid of charts - I encourage you to at least give it a try! It really isn't hard at all. When I first started knitting, I stayed far away from anything with a chart. However, one day I decided to try, because I really wanted to knit a shawl, but the pattern was only charted. Turns out, there was nothing to be afraid of, and I found that I actually like knitting from charts.
In this video, I will go over two charts - what they look like, symbols, and how to decipher them. This is just a guideline which can be used for lace charts, color charts, flat knitting, and just about any knitting chart out there. I do want to say that it is important to read all of the information that comes with your pattern, so you know how to interpret the chart and especially what the symbols in your chart mean. Not every designer will use the same symbols to mean the same thing. This video will show you how most charts are typically set up to work - but again, make sure you read through your pattern completely since there could be a particular way the designer intends the chart to be read.
I will also knit a small piece of lace in the video using the first chart. You can get the chart below if you would like to try working from a chart. I promise, it is really easy, even if you have never knit from a chart before.
The sample in the chart is for Fern Leaf Lace. You will need to know how to make the following stitches:
knit
purl
sk2po (slip a stitch knitwise, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the k2tog)
skpo (slip a stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over the knit stitch)
k2tog (knit next 2 stitches together as if they were one)
yo (yarn over)
If you don't know how to do any of the above, I have videos for all of them on my YouTube Channel. Check the Knitting Basics and Beyond the Basics Playlists for these videos.
I thought it would be fun to do a knit along for a quick, easy project. Nothing is quicker or easier than a dishcloth! This will also give you a chance to use up some of that Lily Sugar'n Cream cotton you have. I know I can't be the only one with way too much of that stuff ;0)
Here is how the knit along will work. Each week, I will be posting a video and written instructions right here for ten rows of the pattern. I will just keep adding to this post instead of making a new post. That way it will all be in one place. You will see me knit the entire thing, from cast on to bind off. Every single stitch!
The first video is just going to show you what you will have at the end of the knit along, and the materials you will need to complete it.
Let's get started!
Materials: One 2 oz. ball of Lily Sugar'n Cream Cotton Yarn (you will only need about 1.1 oz total, so feel free to use scraps if you have them instead of a new ball) US size 8 needle Yarn or tapestry needle or crochet hook for weaving in the loose ends
That's it. Next week, we will cast on!
APRIL 10, 2013 - PART ONE
Here is the first part of the pattern. There is a video as well, showing all of the steps beginning with the cast on.
NOTE: The first and last two stitches of each row are to be knit. This is not included in the instructions below to avoid repetition.
Cast on 40 stitches
Knit two rows for set up
Begin pattern:
(Row 1 is the Right Side)
Rows 1 and 2: *K6, P6*
Rows 3 and 4: *P1, K5, P5, K1*
Rows 5 and 6: K1, P1, K4, P4 *[K1, P1] twice, K4, P4. Repeat from * to last two sts, K1, P1
Rows 7 and 8: P1, K1, P1, K3, P3 *[K1, P1] three times, K3, P3. Repeat from * to last 3 sts, K1, P1, K1
Rows 9 and 10: [K1, P1] twice, K2, P2 *[K1, P1] four times, K2, P2. Repeat from * to last 4 sts, [K1, P1] twice
That does it for the first part of our Knit Along. Come back next Wednesday for Part Two. Here is the video. Happy Knitting!
APRIL 17, 2013 - PART TWO
Part Two of the Knit Along
**Remember, the first and last two stitches of each row are to be knit. This is not included in the instructions below.**
Rows 11 and 12: *P1, K1*
Rows 13 and 14: *K1, P1*
Rows 15 and 16: [P1, K1] twice, P2, K2 *[P1, K1] 4 times, P2, K2. Repeat from * to last 4 sts, [P1, K1] twice
Rows 17 and 18: K1, P1, K1, P3, K3 *[P1, K1] 3 times, P3, K3. Repeat from * to last 3 sts, P1, K1, P1
Rows 19 and 20: P1, K1, P4, K4 *[P1, K1] twice, P4, K4. Repeat from * to last 2 sts, P1, K1
That does it for the second part of our Knit Along. Come back next Wednesday for Part Three. Here is the video for this part of the dishcloth. Happy Knitting!
APRIL 24, 2013 - PART THREE
**Remember, the first and last two stitches of each row are to be knit. This is not included in the instructions below.**
Rows 21 and 22: *K1, P5, K5, P1*
Rows 23 and 24: *P6, K6*
Rows 25 and 26: *P5, K1, P1, K5*
Rows 27 and 28: *P4, [K1, P1] twice, K4*
Rows 29 and 30: *P3, [K1, P1] three times, K3*
That is is for the third part of the Knit Along. Come back next Wednesday for Part Four. We are heading toward the finish line! Here is the video. Happy Knitting!
MAY 1, 2012 - PART FOUR
**Remember, the first and last two stitches of each row are to be knit. This is not included in the instructions below.** Rows 31 and 32: *P2 [K1, P1] four times, K2* Rows 33 and 34: *P1, K1*
Rows 35 and 36: *K1, P1*
Rows 37 and 38: *K2 [P1, K1] 4 times, P2*
Rows 39 and 40: *K3 [P1, K1] 3 times, P3*
That wraps up Part Four. Next Wednesday we will finish up - knit the last few rows, bind off, and weave in our loose ends. Here is the video for Part Four. Happy Knitting!
MAY 8, 2013 - PART FIVE
**Remember, the first and last two stitches of each row are to be knit. This is not included in the instructions below.**
Rows 41 and 42: *K4, [P1, K1] twice, P4*
Rows 43 and 44: *K5, P1, K1, P5*
This completes the pattern repeat.
Rows 45 and 46: Knit all stitches
Bind off and weave in loose ends.
Here is the video for the last part of the dishcloth. We're all done!
At long last, here is the second part of the Entrelac tutorials - Seamless Entrelac!
Below you will find a printable guide that you can use to create your own seamless entrelac projects. There is also a video on the technique.
This tutorial on seamless entrelac is intended for those knitters who already have an understanding of entrelac. If you need further instruction on entrelac basics, you can find my other tutorial HERE.
Seamless Entrelac is really the same as when worked flat, except you don't need to knit the side triangles. This means, if you already have a grasp on entrelac, then working it in the round will be a snap. When starting, it looks as though you will be working flat, and you may wonder how it will turn into seamless entrelac. Your fabric will not be joined until you work the last Right Leaning Rectangle.
The photo above shows the Cables and Lace Entrelac Cowl. The pattern is available only on Craftsy. Click the picture below to go to Craftsy to purchase the pattern. SORRY, PATTERN IS NO LONGER AVAILABLE. The lace stitch used in the cowl is Cat's Eye Lace, and the cable stitch is my own (although it is so simple, I am sure it has been done many times over by others).
Click HERE to go to Scribd to download the tutorial if the embedded document below isn't working.
Here is my latest pattern - another cowl! I purchased this yarn at The Memory Tree and Yarn Branch a few weeks ago. I couldn't think of any better way to use this yarn. It is soft, light and airy, but will keep your neck nice and warm. So soft and cuddly, it is just exquisite! I had fun knitting this cowl; the pattern is easy to remember, and after a few repeats you won't even need to look at the pattern. It also works up pretty quickly. This is perfect for the spring or fall, when the evenings are still chilly. Also great for those restaurants that like to crank up the AC in summer time!
This is knit in the round in one piece, so there is no seaming. Just a few ends to weave in.
You can check with your LYS for this yarn, or it is available at Jimmy Beans or WEBS online.
This pattern is available for purchase only through my Craftsy store. Click on the picture below to be taken to Craftsy. You must be a member of Craftsy to purchase this pattern. Sign up is free, so if you aren't a member, I encourage you to sign up.
First up, this beautiful lace weight from Grignasco Knits, Merinosilk 25. I typically do not go for green at all, but this pastel was irresistible!
I am going to have to go through my Walker Treasury books to find something to do this yarn justice.
Next - I have some angora yarn in my stash, however it all has a bit of nylon as well. This Angora from Plymouth is 100% angora; I have searched and searched for a 100% angora and have never found it. Until yesterday! Let me tell you, it is nothing short of exquisite!
No better place for this yarn than right next to you. I plan on using this for a cowl.
Here is some super squishy yarn from Plymouth, which I have only ever found online. I couldn't resist buying this yesterday when I felt it. Mushishi!
This wonderful yarn is most likely going to be a shawl. I do love my shawls! The only hard part will be deciding whether or not to work it top down or bottom up.
Next, some more Plymouth yarn. This is Taria Tweed, which I have never seen before, so thought I would give it a try.
I think this is going to make another lovely shawl for me.
And finally, Lustra from Berroco. This is very much like the Mulberry Silk I purchased at a knitting and crochet festival last year. It is soft, smooth, smooshy and wonderful!
This will probably turn into a cowl. I know it will be so soft and silky, and great for wearing next to the skin. Yummy!
Yesterday I visited a little shop called The Memory Tree and Yarn Branch. This shop is located at 1015 Chess Street, Monongahela, PA. Currently you can buy yarn and knit/crochet notions and items for scrap booking here.
This shop is owned by the sweetest little old lady, Dorothy. It was very nice to chat with her a bit while I was there, and I look forward to going back!
Dorothy plans on eliminating the scrap book part of the store, and providing only yarn; she also plans on providing a selection of buttons.
Some of the yarns you can find here are Patons, Bernat, and Berroco, among others. I was so very tempted to purchase the interchangeable set of Knit Picks needles I saw, but managed to hold back.
You can also get a Marvelous Memory Card, which receives a number of punches depending on the amount of money spent. Once you hit the $200 mark, you get $10 in Memory Money!
The Memory Tree and Yarn Branch is a great little store - if you live in the area, or if you don't live in the area, but happen to be passing through, I recommend you stop by and visit Dorothy, and buy some of the wonderful yarn she carries.
Here is the yarn I got from Dorothy yesterday. Click HERE.
